Wednesday, 31 July 2013

Sewing Instructions, Day 2

Today, we're working on the sleeves.

Quilt the lining to the sleeve as you did on the bodice, leaving the top seam open.

Join upper seam down to opening, matching the pattern of the Tweed. Press seam open.

Fold back part of lining towards front and tack to seam allowance. Stitch with zipper foot close to seam line and press.
Make up bias tape from lining and stitch to right side of sleeve flap. Trim allowance back, fold over and hand sew to wrong side.
Fold back front piece of lining and hand sew to stitching line.
Fold down lining from sleeve head; it will be hand sewn into the armhole by hand later.
Press gros-grain tape in half and tack carefully around sleeve opening.
Machine stitch in place using an edge stitch foot.

Sunday, 28 July 2013

Sewing instructions, Day 1

Do the shoulder seams of the lining in the same manner and press after completion.

Trim off any excess lining on the hemline, centre front and neckline. Overlock centre front, hem and neckline neatly, ready for the gros-grain tape to be fitted.
Tack around armhole using large stitches and trim off any excess lining.

Sewing Instructions, Day 1

Join shoulder seams and side back seams by tacking. Now it's time for a fitting and small changes can be done on the side back seam and/or the shoulder seams.  Stitch seams of shell only and press open.

Fold lining of back towards front and tack to seam allowance of side back. Tack and stitch with zipper foot close to the seam line.
Fold lining of front towards back and fold under. Pin and tack in place and hand sew to previous stitching line.

Sewing Instructions, Day 1

All sounds like too much work and hard to follow? Don't despair, I run regular workshops in Brisbane and teach you all the techniques to create your own masterpiece. Please contact Rita for further details on 07 3300 3470 or

Join side fronts to centre fronts and centre back seam. Match all notches and pattern of the Tweed, pin, tack and stitch in place by machine. I highly recommend a walking foot as it walks on the fabric and doesn't drag the fabric down and out of place while sewing.
This jacket has a three-piece sleeve, a classic feature of many Chanel Jackets. This seam stays open for the time being. Close both under seams and press open.
Cut out lining pieces and join seams to match shell. Press all seams open. Place lining on Tweed, wrong sides together.
Prepare the lining for quilting by pinning it to the shell. Small pleats are necessary to accommodate the excess lining and make sure your lining is not sitting tight on the Tweed.
Mark quilting lines on the the shell and make sure they are equal on all pattern pieces. Quilt with your walking foot using 5mm stitches. Pull threads to the inside and neaten off.

Sewing Instructions, Day 1

Place the pattern pieces on the Tweeds carefully matching the pattern of the fabric.
Cut out all pattern pieces and interface with 2.5cm wide strips, cut on the bias. Overlock the edges to stop the Tweed from fraying.

Chanel Inspired Jacket, 1960's Style

My inspiration for my latest project is a 1960's Chanel Jacket, embellished with a hand crochet braid.

I chose a lovely Linton Tweed in a green and brown combination and for the lining an Italian silk satin was the perfect match.

The yarns for the hand crochet braid were generously provided by Linton Tweeds. They are actually used in the fabric, more about that later ......